在「鬼城」武漢，被疫情顛覆的生活
上週，在武漢長江大橋上的一名女子。 GETTY IMAGES中國武漢——早晨的武漢是如此安靜，以至於曾經繁忙的街道上的鳥叫聲也顯得低落。流浪狗在空蕩蕩的高速公路中間小跑。戴著口罩的居民小心翼翼地走出家門，眼睛裡流露出焦慮。
他們在因為一種病毒而不堪重負的醫院裡排起了隊，這種病毒幾週前幾乎不為人知。
即使藥店門上的告示說防護口罩、消毒劑、手術手套和溫度計已售罄，他們還是在外面排起了隊。他們在仍然營業的食品店排隊買米、水果和蔬菜，而其他幾乎所有的商店都關門了。
然後他們拖著腳回到家裡，等待這場21世紀圍困的結束。躺在家裡或醫院的人最不幸，他們患上肺炎發燒，這種疾病與冠狀病毒2019-nCoV相關，可能導致死亡。
「我以前從未聽說過這種被叫做冠狀病毒的東西，」 幾天前，50歲的孫安生（音）坐在武漢漢口醫院外的台階上說道，他的妻子發燒了，被認為是冠狀病毒疑似患者，在那裡接受治療。「但是現在我一睡醒滿腦子都是。」
他說：「床位仍然不夠，醫生也不夠。」
武漢是中國中部一個龐大的工業城市，是這次波及20多個國家的疫情的核心地區。目前，政府已將其封城近两週。
這裡和湖北省大部分地區的人們，是一場只有在專制的中國才能想像得出來的大規模醫學實驗的對象：是否有可能通過將上千萬人以某種方式拘禁在房子裡——警告他們在家獃著，並阻止他們離開城市、城鎮或村莊——來阻止病毒的傳播？
冠狀病毒的急劇擴散以及政府的嚴苛限制，讓江城武漢這個擁有1100萬人口的大都市有了鬼城的感覺。許多居民說，他們一個月前似乎安穩的生活已經顛覆，他們的未來支離破碎。
有些人保持泰然自若，繼續正常的生活：慢跑、河邊漫步、帶孩子們到戶外呼吸新鮮空氣。也有許多人被無聊和恐懼困住。
「我都過糊塗了，」被困在武漢的身形魁梧的34歲工廠工人楊德超（音）說。「今天是禮拜天還是禮拜一？你會忘記是因為所有日常活動都停止了。普通人只看到家人和手機。」
楊德超懊悔地解釋說，1月23日上午，他是為做體檢去的武漢，到了才得知政府剛剛禁止所有人離開的消息。
現在，他用簡短的語音消息與位於城外家鄉的年邁父母交談，確認他們的健康狀況，檢查日漸減少的食物儲備。
他說：「我在這裡有親戚，但我不敢探望他們。」他正在尋找更便宜旅館的路上。「每個人都害怕外地人。這裡的許多人也感到孤立。我也是。」
在過去两週裡，坐車或步行穿過武漢時，政府在宣傳上強打歡顏的樂觀，與圍困城市的混亂、焦慮和挫折的景象，形成了反差。
「待在家裡讓我受不了，」坐在街邊的椅子上吃著巧克力餅乾的52歲廚師張彪（音）說。「所有人都是又憤怒又緊張。」
街道黨委已經動員起來，努力提供救濟，振奮人心。
大喇叭裡播放著預先錄製的安撫人心的信息，告訴人們政府關懷他們，並告誡居民戴上口罩，盡量減少外出。路障和牆上掛著紅色橫幅，告訴居民不要聽信有關奇蹟療效的傳聞。
一條橫幅上寫著：「不驚慌，不傳謠」。
不過，在武漢官員一開始的時候將病毒暴發的言論定性為「造謠」之後，許多市民對官方的安撫信息表示懷疑。
在採訪中，許多人脫口說出省市官員的名字，他們說是這些人讓病毒失控。但大多數居民表示，在病毒肆虐期間，他們無能為力，做不了什麼事，寧願在相對安全的家裡或網上發洩情緒。
「首先，我們現在需要誠實和透明，」26歲的工程公司員工毛碩（音）說，她到外面暫時摘下口罩抽煙。「該譴責誰，該懲罰誰，那是以後的事，現在我們只想活命。」
「那麼多的醫用口罩都去哪了？他們是不是藏到哪兒去了？這是我最想知道的，」她還說。
在病毒傳播的那個賣魚、肉、海鮮的生鮮市場外，警察和保安不時地對著路人大喊，讓他們走開。一個街區之外，一排排整潔的新店鋪——星巴克、5G流動電話商店——以及公寓大樓，展露著中產階級的抱負。這種流行病不是發生在貧民窟，而是發生在一個現代化的城市。
在距離這條街不遠的地方，有幾十隻狗關在一個寵物店裡哀嚎。裡面似乎沒有人，也不清楚它們是否得到了照顧。街上也有小狗遊盪，遺棄它們的主人有的可能身在醫院，有的可能是相信了寵物傳播病毒的謠言。
許多居民沒有精力去想這些事情。大多數因咳嗽或發燒需要接受醫學檢查的人，必須排長隊挂號、看醫生和等待可能的處方——通常是靜脈點滴。
大型醫院是城裡少數幾個很難與他人保持距離的地方之一。在武漢協和醫院，病人們擠在全身穿著防護服的醫生周圍，病人大都是老年人。
「我們聽說附近有人突然死於肺炎。咳嗽一聲都害怕，」60多歲的退休老人劉曉萍（音）說。她來這裡本想做檢查，但後來放棄了，因為她擔心做完檢查後還要走很長一段路回家，到時候太晚了。「但是在醫院等上幾小時也很可怕。你覺得我應該怎麼辦？」
儲百亮(Chris Buckley)是《紐約時報》首席駐華記者。他成長於澳洲雪梨，而後在中國居住超過30年。在2012年加入《紐約時報》之前，他是路透社的一名記者。歡迎在Twitter上關注他 @ChuBailiang。
翻譯：晉其角、鄧妍
武漢通訊
在「鬼城」武漢，被疫情顛覆的生活
Losing Track of Time in the Epicenter of China's Coronavirus Outbreak
上週，在武漢長江大橋上的一名女子。 GETTY IMAGESSign up for NYT Chinese-language Morning Briefing.
WUHAN, China — In the mornings, Wuhan is so quiet that bird calls sound down once busy streets. Stray dogs trot in the middle of empty expressways. Residents wrapped in masks creep out of their homes, anxiety flitting across their eyes.
中國武漢——早晨的武漢是如此安靜，以至於曾經繁忙的街道上的鳥叫聲也顯得低落。流浪狗在空蕩蕩的高速公路中間小跑。戴著口罩的居民小心翼翼地走出家門，眼睛裡流露出焦慮。
They line up at hospitals overwhelmed by a virus that most had not heard of until a few weeks ago.
他們在因為一種病毒而不堪重負的醫院裡排起了隊，這種病毒幾週前幾乎不為人知。
They line up outside pharmacies despite the door signs declaring they have sold out of protective masks, disinfectant, surgical gloves and thermometers. They line up to buy rice, fruit and vegetables from food stores that keep operating, while nearly all other shops are closed.
即使藥店門上的告示說防護口罩、消毒劑、手術手套和溫度計已售罄，他們還是在外面排起了隊。他們在仍然營業的食品店排隊買米、水果和蔬菜，而其他幾乎所有的商店都關門了。
Then they shuffle home to wait out this 21st-century siege. The unluckiest ones lie at home or in a hospital, stricken by pneumonia fevers that could spell death linked to coronavirus 2019-nCoV.
然後他們拖著腳回到家裡，等待這場21世紀圍困的結束。躺在家裡或醫院的人最不幸，他們患上肺炎發燒，這種疾病與冠狀病毒2019-nCoV相關，可能導致死亡。
"I'd never heard of this thing called a coronavirus before," said Sun Ansheng, a man in his 50s who the other day was sitting on the steps outside Hankou Hospital in Wuhan, where his feverish wife was being treated as a suspected victim of the coronavirus. "But now it's in my mind as soon as I wake up."
「我以前從未聽說過這種被叫做冠狀病毒的東西，」 幾天前，50歲的孫安生（音）坐在武漢漢口醫院外的台階上說道，他的妻子發燒了，被認為是冠狀病毒疑似患者，在那裡接受治療。「但是現在我一睡醒滿腦子都是。」
"There's still not enough beds and not enough doctors," he said.
他說：「床位仍然不夠，醫生也不夠。」
Wuhan, a sprawling industrial city in central China at the heart of an epidemic that has affected more than 20 countries, is nearly two weeks into a state-imposed lockdown.
武漢是中國中部一個龐大的工業城市，是這次波及20多個國家的疫情的核心地區。目前，政府已將其封城近两週。
People here and across much of Hubei Province are subjects of a vast medical experiment conceivable only in authoritarian China: Is it is possible to halt the spread of a virus by putting tens of millions of people under a kind of house detention, warning them to stay inside their homes, and blocking their way out of cities, towns or villages?
這裡和湖北省大部分地區的人們，是一場只有在專制的中國才能想像得出來的大規模醫學實驗的對象：是否有可能通過將上千萬人以某種方式拘禁在房子裡——警告他們在家獃著，並阻止他們離開城市、城鎮或村莊——來阻止病毒的傳播？
The proliferation of the coronavirus, and the government's draconian restrictions, have given much of Wuhan, a metropolis of 11 million on the Yangtze River, the feel of a ghost city. Many residents said their lives that seemed secure a month ago have been upended, and their futures are in disorienting limbo.
冠狀病毒的急劇擴散以及政府的嚴苛限制，讓江城武漢這個擁有1100萬人口的大都市有了鬼城的感覺。許多居民說，他們一個月前似乎安穩的生活已經顛覆，他們的未來支離破碎。
Some remain stoical, carrying on with the remnants of normality: jogging, strolling by the river, taking children outdoors for a quick breath of fresh air. Many feel marooned in boredom and dread.
有些人保持泰然自若，繼續正常的生活：慢跑、河邊漫步、帶孩子們到戶外呼吸新鮮空氣。也有許多人被無聊和恐懼困住。
"I've started to lose track of the days," said Yang Dechao, a burly 34-year-old factory worker trapped in Wuhan. "Is it Sunday or Monday? You forget because all normal activity has stopped. Ordinary people have just their families and their phones."
「我都過糊塗了，」被困在武漢的身形魁梧的34歲工廠工人楊德超（音）說。「今天是禮拜天還是禮拜一？你會忘記是因為所有日常活動都停止了。普通人只看到家人和手機。」
On the morning of Jan. 23, Mr. Yang explained ruefully, he arrived in Wuhan for a medical checkup, only to hear that the government had just banned nearly everyone from leaving.
楊德超懊悔地解釋說，1月23日上午，他是為做體檢去的武漢，到了才得知政府剛剛禁止所有人離開的消息。
Now he talks to his aged parents in his home village outside the city in terse voice mail messages, checking in on their health and shrinking food supplies.
現在，他用簡短的語音消息與位於城外家鄉的年邁父母交談，確認他們的健康狀況，檢查日漸減少的食物儲備。
"I have relatives here, but I wouldn't dare visit them," he said, pausing on his way to find a cheaper hotel to stay in. "Everyone is afraid of visitors. Many people here also feel isolated. Me too."
他說：「我在這裡有親戚，但我不敢探望他們。」他正在尋找更便宜旅館的路上。「每個人都害怕外地人。這裡的許多人也感到孤立。我也是。」
Traversing Wuhan by car and foot over the past two weeks has exposed the contrast between the clenched-smile optimism of government propaganda, and the sounds and sights of a city beleaguered by confusion, anxiety and frustrations.
在過去两週裡，坐車或步行穿過武漢時，政府在宣傳上強打歡顏的樂觀，與圍困城市的混亂、焦慮和挫折的景象，形成了反差。
"I can't stand staying inside," said Zhang Biao, a 52-year-old cook eating chocolate cookies on a streetside bench. "Everyone feels irritated and jumpy."
「待在家裡讓我受不了，」坐在街邊的椅子上吃著巧克力餅乾的52歲廚師張彪（音）說。「所有人都是又憤怒又緊張。」
Neighborhood Communist Party committees have mobilized to try to provide relief and increase morale.
街道黨委已經動員起來，努力提供救濟，振奮人心。
Soothing recorded messages playing over loudspeakers say that the government cares, and admonish residents to wear masks and minimize outings. Red banners hang on road barriers and walls, telling residents not to heed hearsay about miracle cures.
大喇叭裡播放著預先錄製的安撫人心的信息，告訴人們政府關懷他們，並告誡居民戴上口罩，盡量減少外出。路障和牆上掛著紅色橫幅，告訴居民不要聽信有關奇蹟療效的傳聞。
"Don't panic," says one banner. "Don't allow rumors to make a mess of things."
一條橫幅上寫著：「不驚慌，不傳謠」。
But after Wuhan officials silenced early talk of the virus outbreak as "rumor mongering," many residents are skeptical about the reassuring official message.
不過，在武漢官員一開始的時候將病毒暴發的言論定性為「造謠」之後，許多市民對官方的安撫信息表示懷疑。
In interviews, many spat out the names of the city and province officials whom they say let the virus slip out of control. But most residents said they were helpless to do much while the virus raged, preferring to vent their emotions in the relative refuge of their homes or online.
在採訪中，許多人脫口說出省市官員的名字，他們說是這些人讓病毒失控。但大多數居民表示，在病毒肆虐期間，他們無能為力，做不了什麼事，寧願在相對安全的家裡或網上發洩情緒。
"First, we need honesty and transparency now," said Mao Shuo, a 26-year-old engineering company worker who had briefly tugged down her mask outside for a cigarette. "Who's to blame, who gets punished, that must come, but now we just want to survive."
「首先，我們現在需要誠實和透明，」26歲的工程公司員工毛碩（音）說，她到外面暫時摘下口罩抽煙。「該譴責誰，該懲罰誰，那是以後的事，現在我們只想活命。」
She added: "Where's all the medical masks? Are they hoarding them somewhere? That's what I most want to know."
「那麼多的醫用口罩都去哪了？他們是不是藏到哪兒去了？這是我最想知道的，」她還說。
Outside the market for meat, fish and seafood, from which the virus spread, police officers and security guards sit around, yelling desultorily at passers-by to keep away. A block away, rows of neat new shops — Starbucks, 5G mobile stores — and apartment complexes exude middle-class aspirations. This epidemic took root not in a slum, but a modern city.
在病毒傳播的那個賣魚、肉、海鮮的生鮮市場外，警察和保安不時地對著路人大喊，讓他們走開。一個街區之外，一排排整潔的新店鋪——星巴克、5G流動電話商店——以及公寓大樓，展露著中產階級的抱負。這種流行病不是發生在貧民窟，而是發生在一個現代化的城市。
A little down the street, dozens of dogs locked inside a "canine salon" wailed. Nobody seemed to be inside, and it was unclear whether they were being cared for. On the streets, too, little dogs roam, either escapees abandoned by owners who may be in the hospital or who believe unfounded rumors that pets spread the virus.
在距離這條街不遠的地方，有幾十隻狗關在一個寵物店裡哀嚎。裡面似乎沒有人，也不清楚它們是否得到了照顧。街上也有小狗遊盪，遺棄它們的主人有的可能身在醫院，有的可能是相信了寵物傳播病毒的謠言。
Many residents have little energy to think about such things. Most who need a medical check for a cough or fever must endure lengthy lines to register, see a doctor and wait for possible prescription — often an intravenous drip.
許多居民沒有精力去想這些事情。大多數因咳嗽或發燒需要接受醫學檢查的人，必須排長隊挂號、看醫生和等待可能的處方——通常是靜脈點滴。
Major hospitals are one of the few places in the city where keeping a distance from others seems difficult. At Wuhan Union Hospital, the patients, mostly elderly, crushed around doctors who wore full-body protective suits.
大型醫院是城裡少數幾個很難與他人保持距離的地方之一。在武漢協和醫院，病人們擠在全身穿著防護服的醫生周圍，病人大都是老年人。
"We've heard about people in the neighborhood suddenly dying of pneumonia. Every cough is frightening," said Liu Xiaoping, a retiree in her 60s who had come for a checkup but gave up, worried it would be too late for her long walk home by the time she finished. "But waiting hours at a hospital is also frightening. What do you think I should do?"
「我們聽說附近有人突然死於肺炎。咳嗽一聲都害怕，」60多歲的退休老人劉曉萍（音）說。她來這裡本想做檢查，但後來放棄了，因為她擔心做完檢查後還要走很長一段路回家，到時候太晚了。「但是在醫院等上幾小時也很可怕。你覺得我應該怎麼辦？」
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